grand island mansion

Nothing surprised me more over the weekend than visiting for the first time an Italian Renaissance-style mansion in the heart of the Delta in Northern California, east of the San Francisco Bay.

It was the perfect Sunday drive along the Sacramento River to meet family members for brunch. The house, situated on the riverfront, has 58 rooms and four levels and is the largest private residence in Northern California.

According to the brochure, the mansion was designed in 1917 by renowned San Francisco architect J.W. Dolliver  for Louis Meyers and his wife Audrey, daughter of Lubin of the Weinstock Lubin department stores. It served as Meyers’ centerpiece for his fruit orchard empire and for entertaining guests who arrived by riverboat. Meyers was a orchardist and you can still see wide sweeping fields of pear trees surrounding the mansion and the surrounding town of Walnut Grove.

Outside, the grounds are nice – with fountains and statues and a great big hill for the kids to run down.

It has been restored by the original architect’s great-nephew, Terrence Black. Inside there is a funny feel of  luxurious period furnishings and European artwork likely not from the original private residence, but rather to transform it into a wedding location ( it is used primarily as an event venue). But several rooms including what I assume is the original private bowling alley and home theatre with beautifully carved wooded seats are a thrill to see. There is even a Hemingway Hunt room which serves as a bar lounge, with deer heads and furs on the wall.

 

I’m not clear if Hemingway ever stayed here, but I imagine that in the 1920s, bars called Hemingway were en vogue.

The house has been featured in National Geographic, Architectural Digest and Sunset Magazines.

Rather than pity a bygone era and beautiful home taken over by corporate events or weddings (didn’t the real Downton Abby do the same?), I rather enjoy imagining  a Mr. and Mrs. Meyers escaping San Francisco on riverboat, to the laid back country delta and surrounding orchards. A welcome break from the city, then and now.

The Grand Island Mansion is open for public viewing when it serves Sunday brunch on select weekends. Otherwise it is used for private group reservation. Private tours are also offered.

fine art photography for europhiles

Our home is a collection of old and new. When returning to the states after living in Europe, we shipped many of our favorite things that held sentimental value from our time spent there. Our yellow modern Italian couches and other furniture pieces, dishes, artwork such as framed antique maps, books, and, naturally, our Alessi favorites, as I describe in this past post.

But what had become a challenge was an update to our artwork. Over our modern Italian couches and near several framed black and white photographs, hung a fresco-like painting of Siena on canvas purchased in Italy. It held sentimental value but felt old-fashioned. In fact, much of today’s European and Italian design is more modern than those Americans promoting Tuscan kitchens would like to believe. Our Northern Italian friends have the latest in glass tile, and favor clean lines, modern art and appliances over a traditional look. While we have many traditional items in our home such as a large french-style kitchen pine table, it became clear it was time to update this piece of art on the wall. But how? How does a Europhile – lover of history and things old - accomplish this?

I found my solution last month, while perusing the shelves at our local bookstore downtown for Christmas presents. Above the books, I discovered artistic photographs displayed around the room. The art show was featuring the work of Northern California photographer Dee Conway.

“Room in the Louvre” Dee Conway

Several sepia-colored prints from photographs featuring European  architecture that appeared to be near or around Paris caught my attention. (The photos are archival prints on watercolor paper from a film negative).

Dee Conway

Dee Conway

One photograph in particular, shot wide angle by Conway from a circular window looking out onto the Louvre’s back courtyard produces a peaceful effect with its shadows, texture and clouds.  Quite large and framed in light wood, the photograph – for me – feels so familiar and represents why views like these in Europe never fail to catch my eye and keep me gazing; they fill my soul and spirit when I’m there. I never tire of it.

“The Louvre”, Dee Conway

One of her framed photographs has taken the place of the Siena fresco and, with the addition of a few Missoni-style, brightly-striped couch pillows, our room has been updated with the most perfect effect.

All photos by permission of Dee Conway photography at http://deeconway.com/

flying south

My mother in law, who lives in Canada, likes to describe how – like the Canada Goose –  she flies south each winter to escape the cold.  We took her lead recently and escaped the chill of Northern California to the warmer climate in the sleepy beach town of San Buenaventura, California - or rather the shortened “Ventura” – where we have friends.  (Curiously I have found that the word ”Patagonia” – the outdoor clothing and gear company founded in Ventura -  and “Buenaventura” share the same number of syllables. Nonetheless, the city name got the the chop a long time ago.)

Ventura is a sleepy seaside and surf town. The area feels off the beaten track and we enjoyed exploring it.

Mission San Buenaventura, (1782), named for St. Bonaventure of Tuscany, is the ninth and last mission founded by Junipero Serra in California.

The gardens feature flowers and plants typical of the climate in Southern California. I’ll admit this girl from the north is envious of the colorful and lush landscaping possibilities here.

We took a whale watching tour with Island Packers out to the Channel Islands.

We missed the annual southern migrating gray whales that day (pregnant mothers arrive in the area first, then juveniles, followed last by the males) but experienced a pod of about 75 dolphins  jumping and splashing around the boat. And this New Years Eve sunset was a special treat on our return to the harbor.

Ventura’s city hall is beautiful. This is the view looking down from it to the shore, with the iconic palm trees lining the street.

The flagship Patagonia store in its historic building is not to be missed for some high-end outerwear shopping.

We welcomed 2013 tasting some of the best $1.25 carnitas tacos in nearby Carpinteria where we also discovered by chance a lovely bluffs nature reserve  and a beautiful and long sandy beach without crowds. Some of the tallest and skinniest palm trees I’ve ever seen line its small downtown and we twisted our heads back to peer up at them. The local surf shop had just the pair of Havaianas sandals I was looking for.

Soaking in the Southern California sun we came down for, we watched the surfers to the beat of the crashing waves.

crèches around the world

The crèche – a representation of the nativity scene -  is an art form I look forward to this time of year. When living in Italy, I carefully selected beautiful hand-carved pieces of shepherds or sheep to take back home as gifts, and always enjoyed viewing the life-size presepio featured in Italian piazzas. Much more civilized than a plastic blow-up of the Grinch, I say.

This weekend I visited a local festival which featured hundreds of crèches from around the world. Believers, non-believers and everyone in between, with a curiosity for travel and world culture, will appreciate the diversity found in crèches from places like France, Mexico, Italy, Peru, Columbia, Guatemala, Zimbabwe, Alaska and Hawaii.

Faceless, abstract, figurative, stained glass, pewter, wood, cloth. Of particular interest, a cold-weather (!) nativity scene featuring arctic fox, seals and polar bears from Alaska (not shown).

A crèche created in layers into a colorful and painted gourd from Columbia.

Wooden tribe from Africa.

Authentic Mexican Nativity Scene.

Pewter Nativity.

A crèche made from a coconut shell, Hawaii.

 Gourd nativity from South America.

Miniature dark-skinned Joseph, Mary and tiny Baby Jesus made of clay. From Peru.

White porcelain origami.

Stunning dark wooden crèche from Zimbabwe.

The variety of interpretations of the nativity scene across countries and cultures provided a beautiful display and a joyful experience.

(This blogger as a young girl visiting a traditional Nativity Scene at mass with her family.)

My memories of crèches growing up include the above display at our local church and an elegant and simple nativity scene filled with German carved wood figurines that my mother always placed under our Christmas tree at home. Do you display a crèche at the holiday season? What kind?

photos courtesy of my 9-year-old daughter

temple to wine and art

I’ve been wanting to visit the stunning architecture and grounds at Clos Pegase Winery in Calistoga, Napa Valley for some time now after reading this post on “30 things to do in Napa Valley” by Jenna at her blog, This is my Happiness.

 Clos Pegase is named after Pegasus, the winged horse of Greek mythology. According to napanow.com, legend says that the birth of both wine and art happened when Pegasus’ hooves unleashed the sacred Spring of the Muses.  Even without trying a drop of wine – which I plan to do next time -  this winery is a stop worth making. If you go this time of year, the crowds are smaller, the colors brighter.

The winery is an example of postmodernist architecture, “which merges modern and ancient architecture with strong allusions to ancient Mediterranean themes, especially Crete.”

Mythology is at the heart of many of its pieces. Children like my daughter, who are fans of  author Rick Riordan (Percy Jackson and the Olympians series)  will appreciate the art. 

Gaia, Mother Earth. A sculpture by Henry Moore, one of the 2oth Century’s most well-known sculptors.

This Bacchus once graced the Italian Royal Palace in Torino, Italy. (19th Century)

You can picnic and enjoy a glass of their wine near this fountain from 17th Century Italy.

A thumbs up experience at Clos Pegase, according to the whole family.

Where are your favorite places to enjoy outdoor art?

viva la vida

El Dia de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, is a joyful, Mexican celebration of life and remembrance of those who have passed. Its present-day form – which originated from Aztec roots in Mexico and later transformed into a Catholic celebration after the Spanish conquest -  is celebrated in many parts of the world (including here in the U.S.)  around All Saints’ and All Souls’ Days.

This year I had the opportunity to volunteer and partner with local downtown business leaders in planning our city’s first-ever Dia de los Muertos Festival, which featured an outdoor community altar. The day was  full of good energy, people enjoying traditional food like pan de muertos and hot chocolate, and entertainment including a procession,  a bilingual children’s choir, a Mariachi band and a Columbian dance performance.  A local bilingual Chicano poet did a reading and led us in the native traditional calling of the “Four Directions”  while burning sage as an offering to our ancestors. Each of the Four Directions – North, South,East and West – symbolize an element, like air, fire, water and earth.

I am especially proud of how our  community – at times mocked for our preoccupation with being politically correct - comes together and embraces different cultures in our community.  I wonder what effect the excessive concern with offending various groups of people has on the experience and richness of many beautiful traditions. Some people came to the festival because they were simply curious, other came seriously prepared with altar offerings.

In Mexico, they build altars at the cemetery. These images show our altar being built at an outdoor plaza downtown.

This holiday has always been one I’ve looked forward to.  An excellent source of information about Day of the Dead can be found at this  NPR article that decodes its many traditional symbols and provides some history.  For example, it explains that papel picado - the bright colored tissue paper hanging over the altars and streets – symbolizes wind and the fragility of life. You can also read my post on a beautiful El Dia de los Muertos art exhibit I visited here.

I am half Mexican – my father was Mexican-American and he grew up in a Spanish-speaking home – but we never celebrated this at home. But I still feel a deep connection to it. We don’t need to talk about death in whispers on El Dia de los Muertos. Instead we celebrate the lives of those who have passed and call out to their spirits by placing their photos and favorite items on an altar. They feel alive that day, and maybe they are there,  shouting, as we did with Poet Francisco Alarcon, “Viva la Vida!” “Viva la Vida!” – “Viva la Vida!” “Long Live Life!”

While I left my ofertas on the altar – some photos, a rose for my gardening papi,  an old Italian lira coin for my friend and Italian travel companion who left us too soon-  my mementos joined so many more photos and items left by others throughout the day.  There were pets and grandparents and young people. Everyone had their own story. They were part of the day. They are part of our lives. On the altar. And on the plaza, laughing, dancing, talking with each other. A beautiful moment of shared humanity.

top 3 new experiences this spring in Italy

On our trip back to Italy last month, we walked a lot down memory lane – visiting our old apartments, old jobs, old friends, favorite beaches, buildings, bars and restaurants. The children were gracious, my oldest posing in front of the hospital she was born and standing on the lungolago for a picture where I strolled her endlessly years ago.

But what was equally enjoyable was the creation of new memories with our children through new experiences in an old country with endless things to discover.

Three of our favorite new Italian finds this Spring include:

Visiting the Madame Fisscher exhibit at Palazzo Grassi, Venice (through July 15, 2012)

Even if you are not a contemporary art fan or have had enough of Venice (but is that possible in the city that never gets old?), it may be worth visiting this exhibit if only to  enter the breathtaking Palazzo Grassi for the first time.

From the brochure, “The exhibit offers a journey through Urs Fischer’s artistic career from the nineties to today.  His work, characterized by humor, penchant for paradox and virtuosity of execution, employes simultaneously an extraordinary diversity of media and materials.  It calls into question the history of art and sculpture, our relationship to the body, the notion of time and the status of the object.”  Our favorites include “Untitled”,  two men in candle wax allowing visitors to witness the transformation as the flame burns (the head representing Fischer himself had fallen into his hands when we were there) and the idea of the importance of all processes of transformation, the body’s endurance and duration of artwork; Jeff Koons monumental pink “Balloon Dog” (which is used to contrast a nearby Fischer work);  “A Light Sigh is the Sound of my Life”,  an enormous sphere, slowly rotating on itself made of different materials (what looked like skin and hair). My daughter also gave a thumbs up to the “floating” cigarette box  hung by a thin wire from the ceiling while the naked professional model/woman in the ”Necrophonia” room was a surprise.

Eating at GustaPizza, Florence

Near Piazza Santo Spirito in Florence I ate some of the best pizza I’ve had in central and northern Italy. Our friend who lives in the area introduced it to us. Delicious and affordable,  my pizza came with rucola and grana (above) while the kids had Margherita. If you are traveling in the area this summer, this casual restaurant is not to miss.

Renting a motorboat, Lago di Garda

All the years we lived on the lake, while we enjoyed its stunning water by ferry-boat and swimming, it’s hard to believe we never rented a boat. On the lungolago in our old village of Toscolano Maderno, you can rent a motor boat for an hour for 75 euros. While a splurge for us, the kids agree it was one of the best activities we chose to do on the trip. The views of the villas and castles and mountains lining the coast are best experienced by boat. The boats go fast enough to feel the thrill of bumping over small waves and wind through the hair.

wallpaper for posh bookworms

This week’s The New York Times Style Magazine included something in their must-haves section for the home that is sure to get my nose out of a book.

The Bibliothèque pattern is Hermès’s first wallpaper collection and features images of a library of French equestrian books.

I’m not even sure I should be calling it wallpaper. Wallpaper to me is the yellow, orange and green striped pattern of my childhood bedroom.  But I’m having fun thinking of the ways I could hang it. Over a cabinet or buffet table? On a narrow wall? (Naturally it’s not a substitute for real, breathing books).

“Bibliothèque” comes in four colors. Want to take a peek? Go to the Hermes web site.   (Give the site a chance to load.) Then choose one from a virtual bucket of rolls, drag it to the “wall”  and ”hang” it using a virtual brush. No trimming, smoothing corners or sticky paste required.  Then roll with the possibilities for your home. Price on request.

a journey with edgar payne

Just in time, we visited today an excellent exhibition of a collection of paintings by California landscape artist Edgar Payne (1883 – 1947) at a nearby jewel,  The Crocker Art Museum.

The Crocker recently finished a renovation that includes this building addition that houses early California and modern art, including glass, ceramic and sculptures. There is a separate floor dedicated to Oceanic and African art.

On the 3rd floor past this glass sculpture (I believe it is called Ruby Spirits), you will find the exhibit, Edward Payne: The Scenic Journey” (Feb. 11 – May 6, 2012) and this is precisely what I came for. It includes paintings featuring Payne’s favorite subjects in nature like the California Sierra Nevada Mountains, the desert Southwest, and Europe including the Alps, Swiss lakes and villages, and boat and harbors in Brittany and Venice.

Sunset, Canyon de Chelly, oil on canvas

Payne is called ”one of the most gifted of California’s early plein-air artists”. Drifting in and out of the galleries, it’s undeniable that his free and visible brushstrokes in the impressionist style stand out but the subject is not what one considers  “impressionist.” Rather than a lady’s delicate bonnet or a Monet waterlily, his subjects are rugged, grand scenes, like Southwest Canyons, Sierra mountains, the Alps including Mont Blanc, Swiss villages and pristine lakes which he painted with a perfect balance of color, shadow and natural light. Interestingly, I read that he preferred painting the Sierra Nevada mountains because they offered more colors such as red and green as opposed to the  characteristic uniform slate gray of the Alps.

Naturally, I lingered the longest in the gallery featuring paintings of traditional boats and harbors in France and Italy.  I read that he only visited Europe twice but that he brought back with him photos to finish many of his works.

Breton Tuna Boats, Concarneau, France (1924) is one of my favorite paintings from the exhibit. The longer you view it, the bigger the sensation of waves and boats bringing you in and out of the painting. You can almost hear the water. The chalk-like colors he used are soothing, beautiful and vibrant – turquoise blue, terracotta orange and whites.

Edgar Payne traveled the world – the Southern and Central California coast, the Sierra, the Swiss Alps, the harbors and waterways of France and Italy, and the desert Southwest - to find magnificent landscapes to paint. For anyone who loves to travel and is drawn to natural beauty, these paintings by Edgar Payne will take you there and make you appreciate all that cameras still cannot do.

The Crocker Art Museum’s new addition of modern and California art couldn’t be a better place to enjoy it.

Payne Image credits: Traditional Fine Arts Organization

oh alessi

Our home is a mix of old and new. In our kitchen we’ve got a big chunky pine french country table that seats eight next to a squiggly colorful abstract painting and stainless steel appliances.

When we lived abroad, a shop near our home sold Alessi Italian designer products. Founded in 1922 by Giovanni Alessi, the company is old. But its products always feel new. I know it best for its innovative, artistic, modern design for the kitchen such as kettles, juice squeezers and such in colorful animal shapes and gorgeous stainless steel trays. Old and new. This is why I love Alessi.

Few companies make me want to count my pennies – 18,000 pennies to be exact –  to buy this fruit basket that I really want.

We have this bunny rabbit toothpick holder - it sits on our counter peering out at me when I cook dinner. He (she?) makes me happy.

When abroad, the store that sold Alessi was my favorite go-to place for wedding and other gifts to take or mail home.

This tray is always a hit.

The New York Times Style Magazine posted on their design blog that Alessi now sells the Moka Alessi as a tribute to Alfonso Bialetti who invented the octagonal aluminum stovetop espresso coffee pot that everyone uses in Italy (we still do). Ours is about to go kaput, so my eye is on this next.

Coffee anyone? I promise you it will taste even better with Alessi.

top photo credit: Alessi